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I had such a lovely time visiting the High Tatras and hiking through the mountains. It wasn’t somewhere I’d ever heard of much before I found myself there. But as I wandered around central Europe, zooming in and out of my map, plotting my next stop, it kept popping up. And then I was peeing at my hostel in Bratislava and there was a flyer on the door for Ginger Monkey hostel out in the mountains, and the deal was sealed.
Slovakia is a land of nature. And The High Tatras are one of its highlights. They have about 25 peaks each above 2,500 meters tall. The range is part of the Carpathian Mountains and runs along a portion of the Slovak, Polish border. In fact you can hike right across, from one country to the next should you so choose.
The High Tatras are dotted with villages full of little guest houses and mountain resorts. There are hiking trails criss-crossing the peaks for summer visitors and ski trails if you want to visit the High Tatras in winter.
For me, the trip started (as you know, I was peeing) and ended with the exceptional Ginger Monkey in Ždiar – the people, the place, the location, the dog, all made these few days so wonderful.
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How to get to the High Tatras
I made my way to Ždiar from Bratislava. First, I got a train to Poprad, a nearly 4 hour journey for just under €17.00. I did book the ticket in advance, which isn’t totally necessary, especially if you’re traveling solo, but probably fairly wise in peak season. In Poprad I switched to a bus to Ždiar, the village where The Ginger Monkey is. I bought a ticket from the driver for €2.10. The bus timetables are unfortunately not entirely reliable and you might have to just play it by ear a bit. Some times will be posted and simply no bus will come. But be patient, this is just the way it is – you’ll (probably) get their eventually.
Where to stay near the High Tatras
I absolutely, whole-heartedly suggest you stay at The Ginger Monkey. The hostel is in a cosy house with two floors, a perfect living room, and a shared kitchen. It’s got clean and comfortable rooms and bathrooms and a beautiful front porch. Not to mention Wally, the ginger monkey himself, a fluffy pup who is the best hostel staff I’ve ever met. But also the people making the money here are worth mentioning. They make this a home. They include everybody in everything. Each night they organize dinner at a restaurant in town where you are welcome, or not, to join – I recommend joining, otherwise you’re going to be cooking some probably not very exciting meal all by yourself (though the kitchen is fine and sometimes the invite for dinner is right there, family-style). And the restaurants in town are just as cozy and welcoming as the hostel.
Each morning the staff ask what your plans are for the day and help you with anything you may need to get yourself sorted. By the end of the day they make sure any hikers have returned and check on how you went. This kind of hospitality makes The Ginger Monkey worth every penny and every moment you spend there. You’ll walk away with a heap of new contacts, people you’ve really connected and laughed with. And probably really muddy shoes.
There are other villages you can find accommodation in – but note how far you will be from trail heads, if hiking Slovakia’s High Tatras is your goal, you’ll want to be close to the base of the mountains.
Other accommodation options in Ždiar are available, if a hostel doesn’t appeal to you, here are some other options depending on your budget:
Mid-range: Penzión Perla-Aqua – Just a 25-minute walk down the road from The Ginger Monkey, this guesthouse is just a stone’s throw from a set of chairlifts, so a great option for a winter stay in the High Tatras. Rooms start around $35/night.
Higher-end: Penzión Budzák – A 15-minute walk in the other direction, but still very central, this guesthouse is really not priced as a luxury hotel. In fact, Slovakia is a pretty affordable country, even for luxury. So rooms here, with breakfast, parking, and big comfy beds and bathrooms, start around $80/night.
There are plenty of other options outside of Ždiar, though I didn’t stay in any. Some of the other villages you might look at for accommodation in the High Tatras are:
What to do in the High Tatras
High Tatras hiking is the thing to do here, and The Ginger Monkey is a great base for it. Some of the hikes require taking the bus to another starting point, but there are a few which you can start directly out the door. One of those being ‘the saddle’. Do it. It’s one of the harder, and longer, hikes I’ve ever done. It takes approximately 7 hours and it’s not for beginners. But I’m also not exceptionally fit, and I did manage it. Every time my legs didn’t want to pick themselves up off the ground to take the next step I looked up at the truly dazzling views through the valleys and up into the snow capped peaks and I kept going.
High Tatras trekking is such a regular activity for visitors that trails through the mountains are well marked. There are fresh mountain springs where you can fill up your water bottle along the way – but certainly make water one of your packing essentials. There are also unexpected food stops along the way. At the very top of the saddle, next to a snow-capped mountain and a small spring-fed lake, was a lodge which served beer and hearty dishes for your descent.
At the end of the saddle – after a long, gravelly descent – we were meant to take a bus back around to the hostel. I stuck my thumb out and got myself, and my three new hostel buddies, a hitch instead. I love hitchhiking and I really do think it is safe – especially if you are not alone. But the bus, of course, will eventually come.
What to Pack for the High Tatras
Your most comfortable shoes. If you’re a hiker and you have hiking boots already, bring those. If you don’t, now is not the time to buy them. I have never owned hiking boots and just hike in sneakers. I used to have these Nikes, but have recently graduated to All Birds – which I have yet to hike in, but love for running.
A comfortable day pack. You’ll want this on your back, not banging into your side or anything like that. Mine is very basic, as packability is important to me, but it was totally fine for hiking Slovakia’s High Tatras as I did. You can get them with more padding on the shoulder straps, waist belts, or even Camelbaks. But for just a day trek you really don’t need to take loads with you.
A refillable water bottle. I love my Hydro Flask because it keeps my water cold – which is a treat. Please don’t use plastic water bottles, they are super, super useless and out here in this gorgeous landscape you can see what they are threatening.
Light layers. When I was hiking in the High Tatras it was late spring, and yet there was still snow at the peaks. The wind was cool but the sun was warm and as I hiked I got hot. But then, as I descended again through shade, things chilled off, so bring clothes that are easy to take on and off and aren’t heavy to carry.
A cozy sweater. Just as the mountains are snow-capped, the villages get chilly, especially in the evenings. And once you come down from your hike, take a shower, and clean up, you’ll want to get cozy for dinner in your most lux, travel sweater.
I really, really enjoyed my short stay in the High Tatras, and I do hope life brings me back there sometime soon.
Did you use advice from this post to help you on your travels? Let me know in the comments below!
Want help planing a more in-depth trip to this destination or another one? Send me an email and we can work together.
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